Summer Journal Day 12
Wednesday, August 12
12 PM
Soaked, cold, tired and suffering with bug bites, we stayed inside last night. The guy at the Telos Checkpoint recommended a place in Millinocket and we had a chance to get our laundry done.
At 6:30 this morning we took showers and went over to gas up the truck. The Irving station happened to have a Dunkin Donuts, so Chris had some breakfast. We stopped by the market for ice and a few items we thought we’d need and then headed for Little Lyford.
Back in the woods, but not North Maine Woods land, the Appalachian Mountain Club has a couple of lodges. Little Lyford is one of the three they maintain in the KI-Jo Mary area. We had spent three days here last year and really enjoyed it. This year we thought once again we’d break up our trip with a three day visit, sleep in a bed in our own cabin, take hot showers and eat someone else’s cooking.
I wanted to do some exploring before heading for Little Lyford, but Chris was tired of wandering and just wanted to get there and get settled. It was a nice ride down Route 11 to the Katahdin Iron Works Gate. A paved road, after all those logging roads felt nice. There was very little other traffic and we were back in the woods by 10 am.
I had wanted to hike Gulf Hagas last year but because of the weather wasn’t able. I’m looking forward to it this time. There is an old logging road bridge over the Pleasant River that we were told about last year that I think we’ll use to cross. Rather than drive back to the usual starting spot from which most people begin the Gulf hike, we’ll do it backwards. That way we won’t need water shoes or sandals to cross the river.
We entered the KI-Jo Mary area through the Katadhin checkpoint, the site of the old iron works.
Furnace at Katahdin Iron Works
At 11:30 am we pulled into the camp. All was quiet. The staff takes the middle of the day off and there was no one else around.
Chris seems to be in a bad mood. I think he’s tired. While we wait for someone to show up, I’m doing this writing. No hurry on my part. For a change the sun is shining and it’s a beautiful day.
Wednesday, August 12
3 PM
Joe is a big man. He is the cook here at Little Lyford. He got us settled in our cabin which is called Red Quill. Joe likes to talk. It seems he has been all over the world cooking. He began as a mess sergeant in the Air Force and then in the 70’s went to Alaska and traveled the length of the pipeline cooking for the work crews. When he mentioned Alaska he had Chris’ attention.
Joe is originally from Massachusetts and wears a Boston Red Sox cap. It seems everyone in the woods is a big fan of the Sox. Chris was wearing an identical Red Sox cap and between Alaska and the Sox, they became big buddies.
We three talked for quite a while and Joe made us some ham sandwiches for lunch. While eating them two foxes strolled past the window. Joe says it a father fox and his female kit. They stopped to play in the grass beside the kitchen building. Just beyond where the foxes frolicked, Joe has a garden when he is growing vegetables for the camp. Chris and I hung out all our wet gear to dry. He is still in an ugly mood, but I think he is intrigued by Joe. We put our gear in the cabin and Chris just went out for a walk.
Little Lyford Pond
We have covered so much ground that our plan after dinner tonight is to highlight our travels on our DeLorme map. That way we figure we’ll remember it all better. Dinner is at 6 pm.
Joe told me he is preparing Italian food for dinner tonight. That sits well with me, but Chris won’t eat tomato sauce. I stopped into the kitchen and got talking again. There are only five people for dinner tonight. Joe said that he has cooked for as many as 3200 people before and that five can be more of a challenge. I took the opportunity to mention that Chris wouldn’t eat tomato sauce and Joe said no problem. He’d save some spaghetti and make it for Chris with either butter or cheese.
Red Quill Cabin at Little Lyford
Wednesday, August 12
4 PM
George, the other guy that works here at Little Lyford returned from Greenville a little while ago. He had to bring the AMC truck in for repairs. George is a fisherman and has fished all over these woods. Joe told him about Chris and George sat down with him and drew a map of his fishing holes, told him where his canoe was stashed on Baker Pond and gave him all kinds of tips. Chris has been up at the kitchen cabin talking with George since 3:30 pm. He just came running back and grabbed his fly rod. He said he’d be back in time for dinner, that he was going out to second Little Lyford Pond and that he might also try fishing the river. He took his backpack and rod. I asked if he’d like me to come along or walk out and find him later. I’ll be back for dinner was about all he had to say and he was gone.
Hopefully he’ll catch something and his mood will improve. Right now I’m the bad guy, but I suppose I’m the only guy. He say’s he doesn’t like our cabin that he liked the one we stayed in last summer better. Nothing is going to make him happy right now. He’ll come around, especially if he catches something.
I guess I’ll read his book while he’s gone.
Wednesday, August 12
5 PM
Chris was back within an hour with two trout. He took the up to the kitchen to Joe, who has said he’d cook them up for dinner tonight. Chris now has a big smile on his face. He explained to me that after cleaning them he ate the heart and liver from one. It sounds like he has been watching too many “Man vs. Wild” reruns. Joe wants him back in the kitchen by 5:40 to show him how to cook the fish. He just ran up the hill to take a shower.
Chris with his first trout in the kitchen at Little Lyford
I took the tent and other items in. They’re dry so I folded them up and packed them away.
Wednesday, August 12
10 PM
Chris is asleep. I forgot that Little Lyford is a bring your own bed linen place. I’ll get the sleeping bags out of the truck tomorrow. Tonight we’re just happy to be in warm and dry beds.
Another person came in late this afternoon so there were six of us at dinner. Joe served spaghetti and meatballs and Italian sausage with salad and homemade bread. It was all very good. Chris ate his two trout and had a big bowl of spaghetti with butter sauce and cheese. He was a big hit at our table of six with those two trout. Joe cooked them in bacon grease and corn meal and Chris pronounced them excellent. Unfortunately George has the next two days off, so he won’t be around to go fishing. Joe and Chris have become friends. Joe is about 55 and loves kids. He is married, but doesn’t have any kids of his own. He and Chris have become buddies. Joe is telling him about his travels around the world, especially about his time living in Alaska.
We sat for about a half hour after dinner just talking. Two of the people at dinner had hiked Gulf Hagas today and gave us a trail report. Back at the cabin I read for a while. Tomorrow we hit the Gulf. It should be about an eight mile hike and will take most of the day. Chris was more interested in when we’d be getting back so he can do some more fishing.
The views and opinions in the Enterprise blogs are those of the author and are not neccessarily shared by Falmouth Publishing.
Dan,
I’ve been following your adventure with wide eyes.
Keep the Journals coming, and Thanks….Chris